There are many things to look for to find a "diamond in the rough" piece of furniture from an estate sale, garage sale, or thrift store. Look for the potential in a piece of furniture. This can be divided into a few categories.
First is the feature, will it work for you the way you expect? If you need a good writing/desk surface, don't buy something that's too small or too tall or has a sagging top just because it's cool - it's important that it fits you and your needs.
The second thing to think about is size. Will the piece fit through doorways and up stairs? Measure, measure, measure:If you're out for a walk, bring a tape measure and a quick drawing of the room you want to fill, along with some basic measurements. Sometimes (like in a garage sale situation) you need to be quick on the draw, as most people don't like to make deals while going home to custom.
Make sure the piece has good "bones." Look for a good frame, how well built, how heavy is it, does it wobble when you touch it? Use a little common sense. If it falls off, it could be too big of a project (although if a leg is loose, a trip to the hardware store might solve the problem). Also, reupholstering a basic dining chair can be learned from a book in an afternoon, but making a full sofa takes a lot of practice and sewing skills.
Lastly, does the piece have good lines? Is the meaning interesting from an architectural point of view and does it have proportional qualities from an aesthetic point of view (the bowed legs in our piece caught our attention)? If the piece is "close to cool", you may be able to turn it into a gem by adding appliqués or trimming, lengthening or shortening the legs, etc. piece, probably not a winner.
Use a rag to clean the piece with mineral spirits or Murphy's oil soap. Make sure to remove all dirt and grime from the table.
There were some dents and damage to the corner of the table, so we used auto filler (Bondo) to fill in the gaps. Use a razor blade to score the area so the filler has some roughness to adhere to. In the damaged section, make several small cuts in the wood in a criss-cross pattern. Mix the filler according to the manufacturer's instructions and apply liberally to the damaged area. Once it's dry but not totally hard (3-5 minutes), use the same razor blade and trim the corners (don't go too deep). Then use 220 grit sandpaper to get the final shape of the corner. Sanding is better than carving to get the final shape; Offers more control over the finished repair.
We used 150 grit sandpaper on a palm sander, but it could be done by hand with a little elbow grease. Lightly sand the entire table and legs. It is not necessary to remove the entire finish; in fact, it is better to smooth the surface layer. Don't try to get to bare wood; You will use less primer if you don't. The goal is to get a smooth surface so that the paint adheres well.
Our primer is brown, but any color will do. Make sure it's a sandable primer in a spray can. Spray on one coat of primer and let dry (follow manufacturer's instructions for dry time). Sand between each layer.
Spray paint or pigmented lacquer is recommended. If your budget allows, you can have a paint store make a custom color for you and put it in a spray can. You can use a brush, but it won't look as smooth as spray paint. Spray the paint the same way as the primer and sand between coats. Do not sand the final coat. Try to get an even layer and no particles for the last layer.
Make sure the paint base color is completely dry before starting on this step. Get your second color of paint in a spray can. Select a template (organic shapes work well in juxtaposition with angular furniture). Choose one that works with the composition of the surface you are going to place it on. Tape down the stencil with painter's tape, making sure it is flat and all areas that should not be sprayed are completely covered. If the stencil comes on a roll, it's best to press it for 24 hours before use (put it under heavy, flat objects like boards or books).
Spray the stencil in light, even coats, and try to spray down on the stencil. If you spray at an angle, the mist will settle under the stencil as it sits on top. Inevitably, a mist will create a slight mist around the shapes; This is fine, because it will be lightly sanded. Wait about 30 minutes and remove the stencil.
We decided to paint the stencil color on the legs as well. Instead of placing it on the outside of the legs, we took a more understated approach and only painted the inside of each leg. Make sure everything that won't be painted is covered and spray the stencil color on all four insides of the legs. Once the legs are dry, remove the tape and turn the table upside down.
After about 8 to 12 hours, the painted areas should be dry. Lightly sand over the patterned areas to give them a classy worn look. Rub down with 320 grit sandpaper and use your own artistic expression as to how much the stencil “dresses” up. We did this same step to the painted area on the inside of each leg. Be careful around the edges not to sand too hard or you'll get through the base color too.
Add a protective clear top coat to prevent damage to new paint. There are a variety of products on the market that can be sprayed on and brushed on. We use a sprayable lacquer. Brushing lacquer is also good, and you can also use a brushable polyurethane if the table comes into contact with water or liquids. Apply two coats to desired shine. We chose a matte finish because it has a bit of a shine to it.
