The main piece of plywood should be the width of the bed plus twice the thickness of the padding in the wings. It is not necessary to make and attach legs as the wings can act as legs.
Brackets will be used to attach the wings to the frame. The number of brackets you'll need will depend on the height of your headboard. You'll want a bracket every 12 to 18 inches, so 8 to 10 brackets should probably suffice.
To make the brackets, draw a curved triangular shape on a piece of plywood and cut it out with a jigsaw. Use the first triangle bracket as a template to do the rest.
Place the trailing edge of the brim on the side of the main header piece. Glue and screw corner brackets every 12" to 18" along the left and right edges of the main header.
Screw the corner brackets into the wings from the outside of the wings. Screw the trailing edge of the wings into the main header for additional stability.
To create a smooth transition and solid surface between the wings and the header, cut a piece of paneling and staple the corner brackets, wings, and header together.
The spacing between the buttons depends on what you find visually appealing and what dimensions work well with the overall dimensions of your header. We have created a diamond pattern using a 6" gap. Use a square and stick to draw the diamond grid on the wooden frame.
Drill holes through the points of each diamond. The larger the holes, the easier it will be to find them when pulling the button needle through the header, so use at least a 3/8" drill bit.
Fill the headboard with 2" thick firm density foam. Since the headboard is larger than a typical foam board, use foam and fabric adhesive to glue multiple pieces of foam together.
Draw the diamond grid back onto the foam. Use a hole saw bit to remove the foam above each hole. From the buttons on the outside edges, draw straight lines to the edges of the foam. In the curved section between the header and the wings, it may be necessary to reduce the button spacing as the surface area is reduced with the addition of the 2" thick padding.
Extend a tape measure from one hole in the headboard frame, up and over the foam to the opposite hole. Measure the opposite direction as well if your diamond dimensions are not square. Take additional measurements of the buttons that are more closely spaced in the curves between the wings and the headboard. We will use these quilted measurements to draw the grid on the fabric. If the foam seams are coming apart, reinforce with additional spray adhesive or glue burlap or fabric over the seams to add stability. Be sure to clear holes of waste material.
Cover the front face of the foam with two layers of cotton batting. Use your fingers to clean the cotton from all the holes.
Cover the front face and edges of the header with a single layer of stitched Dacron. Stitched Dacron has a gauze backing. Carefully cut the threads and remove the cheesecloth before putting the Dacron in place. Tear off the excess Dacron so it is flush with the back edge of the headboard frame and clean the holes.
Draw the grid on the back of the fabric using the quilted diamond measurements. For large headboards, invisibly connect several pieces of fabric together along the diamond grid. This is called vandyking. Be sure to add a 1/2" seam allowance on the sewn edges and several extra inches of fabric on the top, bottom, and sides to pull and staple to the back of the header.
With the sides facing each other and the cut edges aligned, sew the fabric pieces together to make one large piece of fabric for the entire headboard.
If you don't have or don't want to spend around $200 on an industrial button machine, contact an upholstery shop to have fabric covered buttons made for you. Use regular buttons or buy button kits at a craft store. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for making the buttons. This headboard has 130 buttons, size 30. Button size is mostly based on your preference.
When all the buttons are done, thread one end of a 20" long piece of button through the loop on the back of the button. Then thread both ends of the thread through the button's needle eye.
Start at the centermost hole and bring the needle through the fabric at the same point. Use the grid drawn on the back of the fabric to determine where to place the needle. Insert the needle through the corresponding hole in the header and pull the button string.
Pro Tip:If you can afford it, buy multiple tufting needles and attach multiple buttons at once to save time and energy.
Pull the button string as tight as possible and secure the ends to the back of the headboard with two staples. To make the buttons go deep into the padding, try pressing the buttons into the holes while you or a helper pulls the slack out of the button string.
To prevent the rope from slipping through the staples, pull the ends in the opposite direction and staple again.
After the first buttons are stapled securely in the center of the header, use the slider to tuck under the excess fabric between the buttons. Fold all folds toward the floor so crumbs and dirt don't easily get caught in the folds of the fabric.
Working from the center out, continue pressing buttons and pleating excess fabric until all buttons are secured.
Desde los botones más externos, haga pliegues rectos y engrape cuidadosamente la tela en la parte posterior de las alas y el cabecero.
Pliegue el exceso de tejido en las esquinas inferiores de las piernas y alrededor de las curvas superiores de las alas.
Para hacer que la tela quede plana y lisa en la parte superior e inferior de la curva, haga pequeños cortes de liberación y engrape el exceso de tela en los soportes de esquina fijados en la parte superior e inferior de la cabecera.
Grape Pli-Grip a lo largo del interior de los soportes de esquina. Coloque un diente de grapa a través de cada orificio en los pies del Pli-Grip. Cierre el Pli-Grip hacia el interior de la cabecera.
Grape el Dacron adherido a las esquinas superior e inferior y recorte el exceso incluso con los bordes exteriores del marco y el Pli-Grip.
Engrapa un pequeño trozo de tela alrededor de las esquinas a los bordes posteriores del marco. Alise la tela sobre el Pli-Grip y retire el exceso de tela 1/2 "más allá de los dientes del Pli-Grip.
Use el extremo plano del regulador de metal para meter el exceso de tejido en los dientes del Pli-Grip.
Martille el Pli-Grip completamente con un mazo de goma.
Engrapa el Pli-Grip en la parte superior y frontal de las alas exteriores. Si sus alas tienen esquinas afiladas, corte el Pli-Grip en las esquinas y comience una nueva pieza para el lado adyacente. Presiona los dientes firmemente hacia abajo.
Corte un trozo de tela para cubrir todo el ala exterior más unas pulgadas para jalar y grapar. Grapa los bordes posterior e inferior de la tela en los bordes posterior e inferior de las alas.
Para proteger la tela, martille los deslizadores de muebles o pegue almohadillas de fieltro en la parte inferior de las piernas.
Coloque el cabecero completado en su dormitorio para una apariencia elegante..
