Both fertilizing and rich in mineral elements, compost is the ideal fertilizer for young or demanding plantations. In addition, it helps to improve the soil structure. Essential for all gardens, it constitutes a concentrate of humus, vital for the fertility of natural soils. But how does it work and how do you properly prepare it?
Compost comes from the decomposition of plant waste and debris, especially old plants that contain lignin (renewable component present in wood) such as flowers, hay, straw, twigs and dead leaves. Composting carries out, in an accelerated way, the stages of transformation of these elements into humus, a natural process that normally takes place on the surface of the soil. Done well, compost made from kitchen scraps and leftovers contains all the mineral nutrients essential to plants:nitrogen, phosphorus, potash, calcium, magnesium and trace elements. To avoid bad odors and aerate it, just stir it well with each new intake.
Composting is an excellent soil remediation system, provided a good balance and sufficient aeration and humidity. Recent studies have shown that the microorganisms it contains destroy pathogenic fungi that can cause disease and rot:compost naturally destroys plant waste from diseased plants in the garden, thanks to various secretions and in particular the presence of enzymes . So even diseased or poisonous plants and other weeds can be composted:they are not for the decomposers! But be careful not to overuse cedar, cypress, eucalyptus and juniper.
Ideally, the compost should be added in the fall because the microorganisms and earthworms are more active. Spread on the surface, possibly incorporated by simple scratching at the first cm of the soil, it must then be covered with mulch so that it remains moist:the earthworms will take care of incorporating it into the soil. But the rule of thumb, above all, is not to overdose the compost:3 to 4 kg of mature compost/m² is enough every 2 to 3 years. If a sandy or clay soil can receive up to 5 kg, there is a risk of water pollution by nitrates that have become too abundant. Mature compost is dark, crumbly when dry, and odorless:expect a year to achieve this result.
Composting in heaps, simply delimited by boards or bricks, remains the simplest solution; otherwise, the ideal container is square and at least as wide as it is tall to facilitate stirring. On the material side, you can imagine everything:mesh, sheet metal, wood, pallets... provided you manage to keep the humidity there. For this purpose, a simple tarpaulin pierced with holes and regular watering are sufficient. For an improvised wooden silo, space the slats no more than 3 mm apart to avoid drying out; the lid should be solid and the inside can be lined with cardboard to keep in the humidity.
