Chelsea Jackson
Wainscotting is a relatively affordable upgrade that adds a special touch to any room. Including the time to paint, this project is doable in a weekend. Standard size lumber is used to minimize cuts and make the process quite easy.
Chelsea Jackson
Chelsea Jackson
Chelsea Jackson
Chelsea Jackson
To make this DIY project easier, use hardwood plywood along with dimensioned hardwood lumber, pre-squared or pre-squared, or S4S ("four-sided surfacing") which can be found in better residential centers. By using stock sizes of lumber such as 1x4 and 1x6, this project becomes more of a simple assembly job and a custom cut and fit task.
Start by measuring the length of each wall (Image 2). Draw a layout plan (Image 3) that divides the walls into equal sized panel sections. An accurate plan will also provide a template to use for purchasing and cutting the lumber. The size of your room will influence the width of the panel sections, but because hardwood plywood comes in 4' x 8' (48" x 96") sheets, it is more economical, both in materials and construction. workmanship, create sections that are the best use of these dimensions.
If you have a large room, for example, the optimal ratio for each panel section would be 48" x 48", which includes the width and height of the vertical and horizontal (overlapping) rails. This allows you to use a full sheet of plywood to cover two sections of the panel. If your room is small, or if your dimensions don't allow for equal 4-foot sections, reduce the width increments to 32 or 24 inches and still retain the 48-inch height (Image 4). The goal is to use full sheets whenever possible. If your room dimensions are slightly smaller, you can usually slightly adjust the width of the end panel sections on each wall.
When measuring walls, use an electronic stud finder to locate and mark the position of wall studs. It is for nailing the vertical studs to a stud so they are firmly anchored; however, since all studs will connect to the top and bottom rails, which span multiple studs and are well anchored, this is not necessary. In your layout, try to avoid placing any of the studs over an electrical outlet.
If you are going to paint Wainscot panels, it is best to prepare them before installation.
Chelsea Jackson
Chelsea Jackson
Chelsea Jackson
Chelsea Jackson
Start the installation in a corner of the longest wall. Measure from the floor to the height you want your Wainscot to be (ours is 35 inches), then use a level (or ideally, a laser stick) to extend this mark along the wall. This line marks the top of the panels and the top rail. The measurement includes a 1/4-inch gap at the bottom to allow for any variations in height from the floor.
Remove the existing baseboard from the room and discard it (Image 1). Also remove any outlet covers, but leave the outlets in place.
Use a caulking gun to apply a continuous bead of construction adhesive to the wall below the grade line, running the adhesive from top to bottom.
Lay the first sheet of plywood against the wall (Image 2), even with the level line, and fasten it to the studs with two 1-1/2" finish nails (Image 3). The next sheet should butt up against the wall. the first and follow the level line.It is more important to maintain a level line along the top of the plywood, even if the joints do not meet tightly together, as the joints will be covered by the vertical studs. ..
Continue installing the plywood sheets to the end wall. Measure the last section butted against the corner and use a circular saw to cut it to fit. At electrical outlet locations, carefully measure and mark each panel before installing, and use a razor blade or hacksaw to cut out the opening (Image 4). When all the plywood sheets are up and level, fasten them to the wall studs with 1-1/4" finish nails.
Chelsea Jackson
Install the horizontal top rail directly above the top edge of the plywood. Use 2-1/2" finish nails to fasten this rail through the plywood and wall and into the studs. If you have to connect two run pieces on a long wall, cut opposing 45 degree angles on each piece to create a lap Put some wood glue on each cut end, then overlap the pieces and attach to the wall.For the corners, use a standard butt joint.
Chelsea Jackson
Chelsea Jackson
Cut all 1x4 studs to size (ours are 27-1/2"). Use a miter saw to ensure square (90 degree) cuts in the end of each board.
Measure and mark the stud layout; If it corresponds to the stud spacing on your walls, each style will be directly above a stud. It is best to start in a corner and exercise. For aesthetics, we chose to join two pieces together at the corner (Image 1). Check each stud with a vertical level as you nail them in place with 2-1/2" finishing nails. Use a spacer board to ensure even sizing between each stud (Image 2). If any of the studs are not a stud, secure them by nailing the feet to the top rail using 1-1/4" finishing nails.
Chelsea Jackson
Chelsea Jackson
Measure and cut the skirting board. Where two boards meet, cut 45-degree mitts that meet at the end of each board to create an "invisible" lap joint. Add glue to the base plate where it meets the bottom of each style (Image 1). Use a pry bar or wooden wedges to raise the baseboard to meet the studs. Fasten the baseboards into place by nailing them through the surface of the plywood and wall into the studs with 2-1/2" finishing nails. Adjust your pneumatic nailer so all nail heads are slightly under from the wood surface, or drive the nails in with a hammer and nail together.
Measure and cut the cove trim to sit on top of the top rail (Image 2). As with the other horizontal rails, use miter cuts for intersections. Secure the cove trim using 1-1/4" finishing nails. To give your panels a more detailed look, you can also install the cove trim all the way around the inside of the studs.
Measure and cut the running shoe trim along the bottom of the baseboards to hide the gap where the panel meets the floor.
Fill all nail holes with wood filler and allow to dry. Lightly sand all wood surfaces with fine sandpaper (#200) and wipe away any dust with a paint tack cloth.
If you are staining the paneling, use a brush or rag to apply the wood stain. Apply a full coat and allow it to soak in for about 15 minutes, then wipe off excess stain. When dry, repeat with a second layer of stain.
Let the stain dry overnight. Brush or spray on a light coat of polyurethane finish. Let it dry, then sand lightly. Use a tack cloth to wipe off any dust, then apply a second coat of finish.
